There are two basic types of Philodendron. The first group, the climbers are well suited to the average room as long as you provide firm support for the stems. The Sweetheart Plant is the smallest and it is also the easiest to look after, with its ability to withstand both neglect and poor conditions. A feature of many climbing Philodendrons is the production of aerial roots from the stems, and these roots have an important part to play. Push them into the compost to provide moisture for the upper leaves. Flowers and fruits rarely appear under home conditions.
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Most of the second group, the non-climbers are capable of growing into immense plants with large, deeply lobed leaves. They are therefore more suitable for public buildings than for the average home. Gail has a wonderful selection of philodendrons as you can clearly see from the graphics provided. The special attention she devotes to all her specimens is well worth the effort.
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Secrets of Success And Special Problems
Temperature: Average warmth, minimum 55 F. in winter. P.scandens will endure lower temperatures (minimum 50 F.) but others need higher than average warmth (minimum (65 F). Light: All Philodendrons should be kept out of direct sunlight. P. scandens will succeed in shady conditions, but the usual requirement is light shade or moderate brightness. Variegated leaf forms should be kept in a well-lit spot. Water: During winter keep the compost just moist, make sure it is not waterlogged. For the rest of the year water thoroughly and regularly. Air Humidity: Keep the air moist in summer and in heated rooms in winter. Surround the pots with damp peat or mist leaves regularly. Repotting: Transfer to a larger pot in spring every two or three years. Propagation: Cuttings require warm conditions. In summer take stem cuttings or air layer the climbing varieties. With a non-climbing variety, shoots taken from the base of the stem should be used as cuttings. Leaves Weeping At Edges: The compost is too wet. Allow drying out and increasing time between waterings. Rotting Stems: The cause is stem rot disease. This is usually a winter problem as the fungus is encouraged by too much moisture and too little heat. It may be possible to save the plant by repotting and keeping the compost dry and warm. Yellowing Leaves: Overwatering is the most likely reason if many leaves are affected and if there are signs of wilting and rotting. If there is no wilting or rotting, underfeeding is the probable cause. If only lower leaves are affected, look for brown spots and for small and dark new leaves, the signs of underwatering. Pale leaves with straw coloured patches indicate too much sunlight. Loss of Leaves: It is normal for the lowest leaves to drop with age. If there is abnormal leaf fall then any serious upset in conditions could be the cause. Always look for other symptoms on upper leaves. If the leaves turn brown and dry before falling then too much warmth is the cause. This is a common winter problem when the pot is kept near a radiator. Leggy Growth, Small Pale Leaves: Too little light is the first thing to look for as the plant will not thrive in deep shade. Leaves With Brown Papery Tips and Edges: Dry air is the most probable cause. Mist the leaves or surround the pot with damp peat. A pot bound plant will show similar symptoms. Brown tips are a symptom of overwatering, but general yellowing will also be present if waterlogging is the cause. No Holes In Leaves: It is normal for the leaves of young plants to be uncut and not perforated. In mature leaves the most likely causes are lack of light, cold air, too little water and underfeeding. In tall plants the most likely reason is failure of water and food to reach the uppermost leaves. Aerial roots should be pushed into the compost or allowed to grow into a moist support.
