Bromeliads are grown for the beauty of their foliage and there are others which are admired for the beauty of their flowers. A few, such as the popular Aechmea fasciata and Vriesea splendens, belong in both camps. These dual-purpose plants are cultivated for both their attractive foliage and bold flower heads.

The usual pattern is a rosette of leathery, strap-like foliage and a flower head which arises on a stalk from the cup like centre of this rosette. It may take several years to reach the flowering stage, but the display may last for several months. Once the flower head fades the rosette of leaves starts to die and is replaced by the offsets at the base.

For interior decorating Bromeliads are simply spectacular. It takes patience, care and warmth to induce a large leaved specimen to flower, but foliage types and plants in flower are surprisingly easy to care for.

One of the oddities is the method of watering. The water is poured into the central cup or 'vase' rather than over the surface of the compost.

The native home of the Bromeliads is the American jungle, where they dwell among the Orchids in the trees or on the forest floor. A novel way of growing them and showing your plants is to create a Bromeliad tree. Otherwise you can keep them in peat-based compost in small pots bearing drainage holes. Remember that they all have tiny root systems, which means that over-potting and overwatering can be fatal.

The Aechmeas are typical Bromeliads with leathery, arching leaves and a distinct central 'vase' from which a stout stalk bearing a bold flower head emerges. Aechmea fasciata (A. rhodocyanea) is by far the most popular and my all time favorite. It is good enough to be the showpiece of any living room or florist window. The arching two-foot grey-green leaves are banded with silvery powder and the floral spike which appears when the plant is a few years old is striking. The pink floral ball appears in midsummer and lasts until early winter. This showy Urn Plant is one of the easiest Bromeliads to grow. There are other Aechmeas worth considering. A. chantinii is rather larger and the flower head is brighter and more open. A. caudata has branching heads of yellow flowers and the attractive A. fulgens discolor, has purple backed foliage and purple flowers which are followed by long lasting berries. Where space is limited there are dwarfs such as A. Foster's Favorite.

Secrets of Success And Special Problems

Temperature: High temperatures (above 75 F.) may be required to bring plants into flower, but average warmth (minimum 50 F.) is satisfactory for foliage types or plants in flower. Light: Most Bromeliads require a brightly lit spot away from direct sunlight. Pineapple and the Earth Stars will thrive in full sun.

Water: Never overwater, and ensure that there is good drainage. Keep the central 'vase' filled with water. Use rainwater in hard water areas. Empty and refill the 'vase' every one to two months. Water the compost only when it dries out. With non-vase varieties keep the compost moist but never wet. Air Humidity: Mist leaves in summer. Feeding through the leaves is the natural method of nutrition, so occasionally use liquid fertilizer instead of water in the sprayer. Repotting: Rarely, if ever, necessary. Propagation: Offsets appear at the base of the plant. When the offset is several months old remove it with some roots attached and plant shallowly in compost. Keep warm until established. Leaves With Pale Brown Patches: The cause is sun scorch. Move the plant away from direct sunlight. Leaves With Brown Tips: Dry air is a possibility, mist during the summer months. Other causes include failure to fill the 'vase' with water or the use of hard water. Plant Death: The cause is overwatering if the plant has not yet flowered. If it has flowered then rotting and death of the rosette which bore the flower stalk is natural. Insects: Scale and mealy bug can be troublesome.

Caladium

The striking coloured arrow shaped leaves are spectacular, paper thin and beautifully marked. This dazzling foliage however is not permanent and lasts only from late spring to early autumn.

Plant Caladium tubers in potting compost in spring and keep moist at 75 F. or more. When the shoots appear mist daily and slowly adjust to living room temperature. Warmth at all times is vital, at no stage should the temperature fall below 60 F. If you buy a Caladium plant, protect it from cold on the way home.

There are scores of varieties available but they are usually sold unnamed. C. hortulanum candidum is easily recognized (white with green veins) and so is its reverse image Seagull (green with white veins). Pink Blush is pink and dark green or red and dark green. John Peel bears orange, red and green foliage. Easier to grow than the showy hybrids is the smaller C. humboldtii. The green arrow shaped foliage is blotched with white. C. picturatum has long and narrow green leaves with prominent white veins.

Secrets of Success

Temperature:Warm above 70 F. whenever possible and never below 60 F. Light: Moderately well lit but away from direct sunlight. Water:Water freely during the growing season. Air Humidity: Mist leaves frequently, especially in the spring. After Care: Foliage dies down in autumn. Stop watering and keep the tubers at about 60 F. in pots or in peat. Replant tubers in the spring. Small 'daughter' tubers can be planted separately.